Everyone 25+ Should be Using this Anti-Aging Staple -- Here's Why:
- Dr. Alexandra LaStella, PharmD, RPh
- Apr 23, 2024
- 5 min read
We all care about our skin health - it's the first thing you typically notice about someone as you analyze their face, and it can be a significant indicator of underlying health. You may have heard a lot of buzz around skincare media about the benefits of hyaluronic acid products - but what is hyaluronic acid? How does it work, and why should everyone over 25 be using it? Let's dive in...
What is hyaluronic acid, anyways?
Fun Fact: Did You Know That Hyaluronic Acid can be Found in Every Mammalian Tissue?
Hyaluronic Acid, abbreviated HA, is an intrinsic, well-studied, and clinically backed molecule that was originally isolated from within the human eye, and has been utilized in skincare and wound healing, among many other applications, ever since. It is one of the most commonly used ingredients in skincare products - but this doesn't mean you should go pickup an off-brand dollar store version (no hate to the Dollar Store, it's just not where you'll typically find a high quality skincare formula). We should consider all ingredients in a product before deciding if it's something that will actually benefit our skin health.
Chemical Properties:hyaluronic acid is a glycosaminoglycan - a fancy word which can be summarized as a collection of bulky sugar structures that are involved in cell growth and turnover, anticoagulation (blood thinning), and wound repair.
Clinical Evidence: Being that HA has so many functions within our body, we have an abundance of clinical evidence indicating the efficacy and safety of hyaluronic acid (and its derivatives) in topical cosmetic products. The potential side effects of use are minor itching, irritation of the application site. With HA as an isolated ingredient, skin irritation is possible, but uncommon, and often not a major concern for users of HA-containing cosmetics.
Interest in using hyaluronic acid as a cosmetic ingredient in skin care products occurred with the discovery that the amount of HA found in natural skin diminishes with age, and when reintroduced into the skin care products, it keeps skin hydrated, attenuates the appearance of wrinkles, and smooths the skin. (1)
Cosmetic Uses: Hyaluronic Acid plays a significant role in the appearance of youthful, wrinkle-free skin both naturally and within the cosmetics world. It is noteworthy to mention that in addition to HA's role in skin integrity, it supports many other roles within our bodies, particularly within our joints (and synovial fluid) for its lubricating properties.
What's the benefit of topical HA in skin health?
1. Wound Regeneration: 0.2%-2% w/w sodium hyaluronate (NaHA - a derivative of hyaluronic acid) utilized for acute and chronic wounds, for protection of skin and promotion of healing (areas after skin graft, post-surgical incisions, and others.)
2. Skincare / Cosmetics: HA is used in cosmetic formulations in concentrations ranging from 0.2 to 1%.
Using cosmetic products such as creams or lotions that contain HA helps to moisturize the skin and to improve elasticity, thereby decreasing the depth of wrinkles. It is assumed that, when applied onto the surface of the skin, HA solutions form an occlusive layer, absorb moisture, thereby hydrating the skin, and default wrinkles filling occurs. HA is assumed to stimulate the migration of epidermal cells. Additionally, since HA is known to "lock in" moisture, it can even help you get the most out of your other skincare products by improving absorption & sealing in products applied prior.
"Interest in using hyaluronic acid as a cosmetic ingredient in skin care products occurred with the discovery that the amount of HA found in natural skin diminishes with age, and when reintroduced into the skin care products, it keeps skin hydrated, attenuates the appearance of wrinkles, and smooths the skin. HA has...pronounced moisturizing and anti-ageing effects" (1)
Anti-Ageing Benefits: Cells lose their ability to produce HA throughout adulthood, starting at the absolutely geriatric age of 25 years old.
HA holds moisture, and provides firmness and radiance to the skin as well [93,94]. HA can be used topically to regenerate the skin and support hydration. *HA is naturally and constantly renewed in our skin, but renewal tends to slow with age and external aggressions. This means that it's best practice to act early - don't wait in order to sustain a sufficient rate of HA turnover, similar to that of young skin. As we age, loss of hyaluronic acid production causes the skin to lose moisture and become thinner - eventually leading to wrinkles. Taking this fact into consideration - perhaps everyone over 25 could benefit from a HA- containing cosmetic.
Figure 1: Illustrates the effect of an anti-ageing cream on periorbital wrinkles before treatment and after 28 days of treatment. * topical product tested contained 0.5% w/w LMW-HA and 3% w/w HMW-HA. Notable improvement can be seen in these side to side images - wrinkles have quite literally been "filled in" after 28 days of treatment.
That's pretty awesome, in my opinion.
Which product should I choose?
The market seems like its oversaturated with skincare products lately - evidenced by the 10 year olds who ruined Drunk Elephant for all of us. HA products exist among all pricing categories: from low end brands to luxury brands and everything in between. So, what sets them apart from eachother? Categorized from mass-market to prestige or luxury products, it is important to mention that finished products containing HA represent only a small percentage, and the majority of the total products contain sodium hyaluronate, a salt form derivative, which can make assessing the amount of bioavailable may be difficult to decipher)
Cosmetics incorporating HA or NaHA may also contain other active ingredients, such as: different plant extracts, vitamins, amino acids, peptides, proteins, saccharides, probiotics, and even extracts of certain metals. Some can be fantastic and provide additional benefit, and some may cause irritation, itching, rash, etc. In addition, irritation and allergy can be contributed to certain inactive ingredients, so be sure to check those on every label if you have a known sensitivity or allergy to inactive ingredients (ex: fragrances are a common irritant).
It's important to monitor all ingredients in your skincare (and anything else that you put in or on your body), especially if you have sensitive skin, allergies, a skin disorder, or similar preexisting circumstance.
Rule of thumb: my professional opinion is that you get what you pay for (usually). This doesn't necessarily mean to buy the most expensive product on the market - the "perfect" formula is not one-size fits all. What I mean by this is that well-known and well-funded companies have typically demonstrated their trustworthiness regarding quality assurance and purity with independent and third-party studies. IMO - don't buy any cosmetic or supplement/herbal product from a sketchy, small company you've never heard of, and/or who's pricing is way too good to be true. For some good examples of HA products, check our instagram feed: Show Me More
In summary...
I encourage you to always do your own research when looking for products for your skin health. Look beyond marketing and visual appeal and look more into the product labels and fine details - that is where the real information is hiding.
Regarding its clinical significance and use in cosmetics, HA is one of the best tolerated, and most effective, skincare ingredients on the market - with numerous skin benefits and youth-promoting qualities. It's best to start young with hyaluronic acid - but it's never too late to start taking care of your skin.
**TIP: Use the EWG (Environmental Working Group) Database: a tool to cross-check all ingredients in your cosmetics, and see how a product ranks in irritability potential. URL: https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/
(100% free for public use)
Resources:
Juncan AM, Moisă DG, Santini A, Morgovan C, Rus LL, Vonica-Țincu AL, Loghin F. Advantages of Hyaluronic Acid and Its Combination with Other Bioactive Ingredients in Cosmeceuticals. Molecules. 2021 Jul 22;26(15):4429. doi: 10.3390/molecules26154429. PMID: 34361586; PMCID: PMC8347214.
Casale J, Crane JS. Biochemistry, Glycosaminoglycans. [Updated 2023 Mar 27]. In: StatPearls [Internet]. Treasure Island (FL): StatPearls Publishing; 2024 Jan-. Available from: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK544295/
